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The
Birth of an Hand-Made Rug
The
weaving of pile rugs is a difficult and tedious process which,
depending on the quality and size of the rug, may take anywhere from
a few months to several years to complete.
To
begin making a rug, you need a foundation consisting of warps - strong, thick threads of cotton, wool or silk which run the length
of the rug and wefts similar threads, which pass under and over the
warps from one side to the other. The warps on either side of the
rug are normally combined into one or more cables of varying
thickness that are overlapped to form the selvedge.
Weaving
normally begins by passing a number of wefts through the bottom warp
to form a base to start from. Loosely piled knots of dyed wool or
silk are then tied around consecutive sets of adjacent warps to
create the intricate patterns in the rug. As more rows are tied to
the foundation, these knots become the pile of the rug. Between each
row of knots, one or more shots of weft are passed to tightly pack
down and secure the rows.
Depending
on the fineness of the weave, the quality of the materials and the
expertise of the weavers, the knot count of a hand made rug can vary
anywhere from 16 to 550 knots per square inch.
When
the rug is completed, the warp ends form the fringes that may be
weft-faced, braided, tasseled, or secured in some other manner.
Common
Rug Terms
Abrash
- A slight difference or shift of color and tone in large
color fields. An “abrash” was originally caused by nomadic
changes-of-residence, or the weaver’s decision to complete the
rug at his new location. Many nomadic tribes must wait for the
next "crop" of wool for example, which can have a
dramatic change in the hue and color of the finished rug. Many
times an "abrash" can be intentionally included in the piece
to instill a tribal or nomadic feel. Final
Wash - The finishing "Wash" is the final step in giving
a Oriental rug it's final character. Many different kinds of "washes"
are used today, though their formulas are often closely guarded
secrets. In the ’20s and ’30s thousands of rugs were washed in
coffee, a natural dye. Today some rugs are washed in tea, acids, dyes,
and even scorched. An "herbal" wash is sometimes used; it
can be a combination of tea and henna, Or sometimes madder, a natural
dye, is used in the final wash of an entire rug to "sadden"
it. Many rugs of the '70s were washed and treated with battery acid
for a "Golden-look" popular in America at the time.
Foundation
- An interlaced combination of warp and wefts in the rug's body.
Like the pyramids, the foundation is the key to the longevity of a
fine Oriental rug.
Handspun
- Hand spinning is the process of twisting together and drawing out
massed short fibers into a continuous uneven strand or yarn, often
through the use of a drop spindle. Handspun fiber tends to have a much
more uneven dying pattern than that Machine-spun fiber. This uneven
tension throughout the fiber gives Handspun fiber it's unique texture
and look. Handspun fiber rugs can cost up to 30% more than
Machine-spun fiber rugs due to the sheer labor involved in the long
tedious process. Handspun fiber is most often found in Nomadic and Tribal
rugs.
K.P.S.I.
- Knots per square inch.
Loom - A frame or machine for interlacing at right angles
two or more sets of threads or yarns to form a rug.
Machine
Spun - Machine spinning is the mechanical process of twisting
together and drawing out massed short fibers into a continuous uniform
strand or yarn. Machine-spun fiber tends to have a much more even
dying pattern than that Handspun fiber. Machine-spun fiber is used in
about 98% of all City rugs and in most Oriental rugs worldwide since
World War II.
Natural
Dye - Natural dyes can be made from any organic material, such as
Fruits, Berries, Algae and even in rare cases, Insects. Naturally dyed
Oriental rugs are the most prized, due to the unique colors that are acquired
over time, making some of the older pieces priceless. Natural
Fiber - Any natural organic fiber. The most common used is Cotton,
Wool and Silk, which have been used throughout the millennia for the
manufacture of fine Oriental rugs all over the world. Coveted for its
natural beauty, texture and longevity, a quality rug made of all
natural fibers can last for generations.
Pile - The surface of a rug composed of an infinite number
of loops of warp threads, or else of an infinite number of free
ends of either warp or of weft, or filling, threads that stand
erect from the foundation. In a looped pile rug the loops are
uncut; in a cut pile rug the same or similar loops are cut, either
in the loom during weaving or by a special shearing tool.
Positioning - The position of a rug relative to a light
source can have a dramatic effect on the look of a rug due to its
texture, grain and pile. Many large estates change the rotation of
their rugs every year with the change of the seasons.
Selvedge - The edge on either side of a woven rug so
finished as to prevent unraveling.
Synthetic
Fiber - Any man-made fiber such as Nylon, Polyester or Polypropylene.
High-quality polypropylene rugs are ideal for "living space"
areas, such as bathrooms, kitchens and dinning rooms, where spills and
mishaps occur the most. Under
Padding - Under padding is a material used to provide airflow
between floor and the rug, in addition to stabilizing and extending
the life of the rug by cushioning the pile.
Warp - A series of yarns extended lengthwise in a loom and
crossed by the weft.
Weave - To make a rug on a loom by interlacing warp and
weft threads.
Weft - Also called filling, in woven rugs, the widthwise,
or horizontal yarns carried over and under the warp, or lengthwise yarns, and running from selvage to selvage. Filling
yarns are generally made with less twist than are warp yarns
because they are subjected to less strain in the rug weaving
process and therefore require less strength.
Persian
Rugs
Generally,
Rugs from Iran (formerly Persia) are classified by the region in
which they are made. For example, a rug would be identified in the
market as a Tabriz if it was woven in or near the city of the same
name. A major rug-producing center such as Tabriz may also have
subcategories, such as the famous Tabriz Mahi.
Every
city, village, or tribe has their own design that they incorporate
into their rugs, much like a trademark. If a design becomes famous,
other centers may attempt to imitate the design though it seems
imitators never quite match the quality of the original.
Persian
rugs aren't always from the city they are identified as quality is
also an identifying factor. For example, in the holy city of Mashad,
when finer pieces are woven, they are often referred to as Moods.
Although Mood is a village near Mashad, the name doesn't necessarily
mean that the rug was woven there.
Another
way Persian rugs are classified is by the city in where they are
marketed. For example, Arak is a small rural town that has an
incredibly large rug trading industry. It is surrounded by dozens of
other villages that all produce rugs of their own. All these rugs
are marketed in Arak, and thus many of them are referred to as Araks.
Likewise
Birjand is a town in the province of Khorassan a fair distance south
of Mashad, but some rugs of a certain quality marketed through
Mashad are referred to as Birjands. This system of geography and
quality of the Persian rug industry is common throughout Iran.
Tribal
or City
Typically
there are two types of rugs made in Iran: tribal rugs and city rugs.
Tribal rugs are those woven by nomads and inhabitants of small rural
villages. For the most part, these rugs are inferior in quality to
the ones made in the cities. However the materials such as the wool
and dyes used are often of excellent quality and occasionally a
tribal rug turns out surprisingly fine.
The
dyes used in tribal rugs are still mainly natural vegetable dyes,
which is superior to chemical or chrome dyes.
There
are many different designs found in Persian rugs. Tribal rugs tend
to have geometric designs with little detail, only a few bright
colors. City rugs and finer pieces usually have a more detailed
design and much more color. Also, some cities will have very few
designs and others such as Tabriz will have a great number. A rug
expert can usually determine the origin of a rug simply by analyzing
the design.
Quality
Persian
rugs are categorized by quality first and design second. Quality
refers mainly to the knotting of the rug plain and simple: the
higher the knot count, the higher the quality. Other factors that
contribute to the grading of rugs are the quality of the wool or
silk, the dyes used, and the symmetry and accuracy throughout the
design.
You
may come across coarse Persian rugs that aren't perfectly square or
contain a main color that varies in tone from one end of the rug the
other. These imperfections, however, are what give these rugs their
character and authenticity. A machine made rugs may be perfectly
square, but the quality of these mass-produced rugs is otherwise
inferior to handmade rugs in every aspect.
Surprisingly,
a fine Persian rug will almost always include intentional
imperfections. In fact, there's an old Persian proverb that says,
"A Persian Rug is Perfectly Imperfect, and Precisely
Imprecise". This notion of intentionally including slight and
minor irregularities is derived from the religious belief that God
is the only perfect being and that attempting absolute perfection
would be claiming the position of the Almighty.
Size
The
most popular sizes for Persian rugs are seven by ten feet, eight by
twelve feet, and ten by thirteen feet. These standard sizes each
have names in Iran, and most regions will usually produce only one
size. In larger centers, however, you can find rugs of non-standard
dimensions ranging from a small two by three foot mat to carpets as
large as a city block.
Oriental rugs
Oriental
rugs refer to those created anywhere on the continent of Asia. While
most people think of "Oriental rugs" as primarily Chinese,
Japanese or any other such far east culture, Europeans generally
refer to most of Asia as "The Orient". It is that same
thinking that applies to Oriental rugs.
Any
study of Oriental rugs must certainly take into consideration the
incredible history and culture of a vast area stretching from the
Black and the Mediterranean Seas eastward to the People's Republic
of China.
This
remarkable area, which many call the cradle of civilization,
includes those southern regions which are now part of Russia, plus
Mongolia, Uzbekistan, Kirgizstan, Nepal, Tibet, China, Turkey,
Mesopotamia, Persia (Iran), Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan. Other
nations with established rug weaving histories include Egypt and
Morocco.
Many
believe, however, that no rug comes close to the utmost superiority
of Persian rugs. And today, Iran produces more handmade rugs than
all other rug producing countries combined.
In
Asia apart from China and Tibet which produce a distinct series of
Oriental rugs the cultures of all the other regions are linked by
ethnographic ties and, most importantly, by a common religion:
Islam.
The
development of the art of handmade Oriental rugs and Persian rugs in
these countries may be seen basically as an interaction between
religious and ethnic structures dating back long before the advent
of Islam. Economic, social, and significant political movements
caused by the development of religious beliefs helped shape this art
into what it is today.
It
is safe to define the cultures of the major Islamic countries and
regions mainly in terms of a few major ethnic groups: the
Mongolians, the Persians, the Turks, and the Arabs; and their spread
through the empires of Asia.
The
most famous designs found in Oriental rugs today include the
numerous Persian designs, the Turkoman allover designs, the
geometric and plain tribal designs, the modern Tibetan designs, and
the Indo-Persian designs which are Persian designs imitated in
Indian Oriental rugs.
Throughout
the continent, Persian designs are often imitated. However, the
quality is different and any rug expert can easily distinguish a
genuine Persian rug. Of course, in Iran, designs of other countries
are almost never woven unless by special request for a custom-made
Oriental rug.
In
countries like Afghanistan and Nepal, Oriental rugs are woven mainly
by nomadic tribes. Countries like China, Pakistan, and India have
modern Oriental rug weaving industries combined with tribal pockets.
In Iran the rug industry is modernized though a large percentage of
the rugs are still produced by nomads.
Today,
almost all of the Oriental rugs of the world are made in Asia. Other
countries either don't have the skill to weave such carpets or
higher wages for workers make it almost impossible to compete with
the prices of Oriental rugs.
It's
important to note that any handmade Oriental rug is completely
superior in quality to a machine made Oriental rug because each knot
has been individually tightened by the hand of a master weaver.
Central
Asia
Besides
Iran, other countries such as Afghanistan, India, and Pakistan also
produce handmade Oriental rugs for export. Both Pakistan and India
have developed fairly modern Oriental rug and textile industries
while Afghanistan still remains a nation whose Oriental rug export
industry is rather limited.
Each
of these countries creates a distinct quality and style of Oriental
rug, and pieces made in any of the countries, although well made,
can always be distinguished from finer Persian rugs.
India
India,
located in South Central Asia, is bordered by China, Nepal, Bhutan,
Bangladesh, Burma, Pakistan, and the Indian Ocean. Geographically,
the country covers about three million square km and has a
population of about 980 million people making it the second most
populated country in the world after China.
India
gained its independence from Britain in 1947 and has its federal
capital in New Delhi.
Oriental
Rug weaving isn't as ancient a tradition to India as it is to Iran.
In the sixteenth century the art of Oriental rug weaving was
introduced to India mainly by the Persian Empire under Mongolian
rule, and then under the Persian Safavian rule.
The
Moghul dynasty of India was, as its name implies, ruled by emperors
proud of their Mongol descent. Babur, the first Moghul Shah (king)
(1526-30) was a fifth generation descendant of Tamerlaine and was
thus related to Chengiz Khan. Formerly ruler of Afghanistan, he
overthrew the Hindu Delhi Sultanate and conquered India.
During
this period, the Indian rug weaving industry began to grow. By the
end of Mongol rule in Persia in the end of the fifteenth century,
India had developed quite a talent for weaving Oriental rugs. After
the Safavid Dynasty came into full power in Iran in 1501, the
Persian government set up professional workshops in India to weave
Oriental rugs and often had expert Persian weavers supervise the
weavers at work in front of the looms.
As
a result, almost all Indian Oriental rug designs of today are
imitations of famous Persian designs, such as Kashan and Kerman. The
only thing that sets them apart is the difference in quality of the
wool and the weave.
In
the 15th to 17th centuries, most Oriental rugs made in India were
almost as fine as Persian weavings, but this art almost came to an
end in India in the late 17th century. The industry was
reestablished by the British in the 1800s but later carpets weren't
nearly as fine.
The
wool used in Indian Oriental rugs is coarser than that used in
Persian rugs. It is also more difficult to fold an Indian Oriental
rug because of its stiffness.
However,
they sit very nicely on the floor and they tend to last a very long
time.
Pakistan
Most
of what was said about India's Oriental rug industry can also be
said about Pakistan's.
Pakistan
is located west of India, covers a geographic area of about 800,000
square km, and has a population of approximately 140 million people.
Like
India, Pakistan was also subject to British rule for many years and
it, too, gained its independence at the same time as India. Pakistan
is mainly an Islamic country and has its capital in Islamabad.
As
is the case with India, Pakistan's Oriental rug industry has been
greatly influenced by the Persian Empire. The Iranian government set
up royal rug manufacturing facilities in Pakistan and by the 16th
and 17th centuries, Oriental rug weaving had developed considerably
in the region.
Today
the styles and patterns of Pakistan's Oriental rugs follow either
famous Persian designs or Turkoman and Caucasian (Bokhara) designs.
Bokhara
Oriental rugs are high in quality and have incredibly soft and
lustrous wool. In the finer Bokharas, virgin lamb wool is used to
give the carpets an extraordinarily soft feel. In these designs,
only about two to four colors are used, and they are usually
different shades of green, blue, or red. The styles resembling
Persian designs are also high in quality and often higher in price.
Today,
Pakistan is the fourth largest Oriental rug producer in the world.
Afghanistan
Afghanistan
is a small country located north west of Pakistan and China,
northeast of Iran, and south of Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. Over 25
million people live in this land that covers an area of a little
over 650,000 square km.
Afghanistan's
Oriental rug industry isn't as great as it was before the country
began facing political problems. Today, even though there are many
Oriental rugs produced in the country, export is extremely
difficult, so Afghanistan markets their Oriental rugs to the rest of
the world through Pakistan and Iran.
Afghan
Oriental rugs usually resemble Caucasian style rugs and are similar
to those made in Turkey, and East Turkmenistan and the Caucasus. The
color scheme used in Afghan Oriental rugs consists of a few exciting
colors that are exclusive to their style of Oriental rug. Afghan
nomads such as the Chechen tribes still produce Oriental rugs but in
very little quantities making them rare and hard to find.
Northwest
Asian Weaving
Caucasian
Oriental rugs come from the region northwest of Iran and south of
Russia between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, an area of
approximately 160,000 square miles. This is also the area believed
to be responsible for the production of some of the world's first
pile Oriental rugs.
Caucasian
Oriental rugs mirror the complex ethnography of their creators.
Until the Russian conquests of the late 18th and 19th centuries, the
area had been an ethnic, cultural, and religious melting pot and a
ceaseless battleground for over 800 hundred years. Surrounding
civilizations were constantly seeking to make the Caucasus their
own, either for political or religious reasons.
Caucasian
Oriental rugs all bear a striking similarity to one another and
resemble the Turkoman Oriental rugs and those made by the nomads
living in southeast Turkey.
The
main characteristics that distinguish Caucasian Oriental rugs from
Persian rugs are their color schemes of bright shades of red, rust,
or burgundy, and their border and medallion motifs. Caucasian
Oriental rugs tend to have a lot of octagonal motifs with bold
geometric elements and narrow borders.
Today,
all the countries in this area combined do not produce even half as
many Oriental rugs as Iran does. But because of their scarcity,
Oriental rugs from these countries are considered to be quite
valuable.
Far
Eastern Weaving
Some
of the most distinct Oriental rugs in the world are those made in
the Tarim Basin located in the far eastern regions of Asia.
Countries in this area include China, Mongolia, Tibet, East
Turkmenistan, Nepal, and many countries once part of the Soviet
Union, including Kirgizstan and Uzbekistan.
The
Tarim Basin is a very old area, often times referred to as Eurasia
the precise half-way point between the Far East, and western Europe.
Some of the oldest Oriental rug fragments ever discovered have been
unearthed in the Tarim Basin.
Many
believe that the first people to ever weave pile Oriental rugs were
in fact those nomads living in the area of present day Mongolia.
East
Turkmenistan

The
area described as East Turkmenistan stretches from the city of
Samarkand (Uzbekistan) in the west to beyond the city of Khotan (Sinkiang
province - West China) about one thousand miles to the east.
This
westernmost area of China wasn't a permanent part of the Chinese
Empire until the 18th century. It was, however, in the direct line
of the great silk route west, and was one of the first significant
areas outside China to rear silkworms.
Until
its conquest by China, the area had been subjected to centuries of
various political and cultural influences. In the early centuries of
Christianity, this area practiced the Graeco-Roman style of art.
Evidence of this can be seen through the numerous fresco fragments
and artifacts that have been discovered in the area.
The
forces of power that were of great influence to this area were
Persia and Turkey in the west, India in the south, and China and
Mongolia in the north and east. The major religions were Manicheeism,
Zoroastrianism, Nestorian Christianity, Buddhism, and Shamanism.
This
land is the pivot point of the Eurasian landmass, with the major
city of Khotan being precisely halfway between Tokyo and London.
Studies
based on archeological artifacts prove that by the 4th century BC
the main language spoken in this area was Tokharian which belonged
to the Indo-Aryan language group.
Evidence
proves that this language was spoken as far as a thousand miles east
of Khotan, in Central China; this was the place that Sir Aurel Stein
discovered frescoes that could just as well been painted in Italy or
Alexandria.
Until
the discovery of the Pazyryk Oriental Rug, it was here in the Tarim
Basin that the oldest Oriental rug fragments were found.
Mongolia
and Mongolian Influence

After
being ruled by the Hephtalites, Turks, Chinese and Tibetans, this
region fell under Mongolian rule in the 12th century. This was the
time that the Mongolian power of Chengiz Khan was at its peak,
having also conquered civilizations as powerful as Persia.
In
the 17th century the Tarim Basin was conquered by the Chinese, aided
in their second conquest by the British who wanted to preserve the
borders of India and prevent Russian expansion.
The
fact that the Pazyryk Oriental rug, the earliest surviving example
of pile Oriental rug weaving, was found in this area of Central Asia
close to Mongolia, strongly suggests that the art itself may have
originated there by various tribes and dynasties of Mongol descent.
Many
scholars believe that the Oriental rug was Mongolian, but others
believe it could have been woven in Persia, because of its Assyrian
and Persian motifs. What we know for sure is that the weaving of
pile Oriental rugs started somewhere between Persia and Mongolia.
China
Evidence
suggests that the Chinese did not start weaving pile Oriental rugs
until the time of the Sung Dynasty (960-1279). And it's also
believed that even those Oriental rugs being made in China were used
by the Mongolians because the Chinese looked down on wool as a
barbarian material. Instead, the Chinese have preferred silk, a
material they have specialized in for over 4000 years.
China
never had much of a nomadic Oriental rug weaving population. And
when the Chinese did start weaving Oriental rugs, they used unique
designs usually containing Imperial five-clawed dragons. Today,
China is the leader in the Far East for producing Oriental rugs.
However, all of China's Oriental rugs are made in urban centers by
weavers who made them strictly for retail or export.
Tibet
From
about 600 to 800 AD the entire area of northern India, Nepal,
Western China, and of course the Tarim Basin was under Tibetan
control. During this time the people of Tibet moved down into the
fertile Yarlung Valley, which is on the present border of Nepal,
Pakistan, and Bhutan, and formed a strong civilization.
Their
great power is said to have stemmed from the fact that they were on
diplomatic terms with the great Sassanian Dynasty of Persia. By the
time the Arabs expanded eastward to spread Islam, the Tibetans had
adopted Buddhism.
Their
empire collapsed around 850 A.D. and the Tibetans were scattered
throughout the area until the Mongol invasion in the 13th century.
And until the Chinese Communist invasion in 1959, Tibet was ruled by
religious Buddhist leaders and Dalai Lamas.
Tibetans
are believed to have been weaving pile Oriental rugs a little over
900 years, definitely not as long as the Mongolians, Turks, or
Persians. Mongolia, Tibet, and East Turkmenistan don't produce many
Oriental rugs any more and the few Oriental rugs they make are
mainly for export by nomadic weavers.
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